Once the centre of a vast empire encompassing a diversity of lands and cultures, today, Istanbul retains its status as one of the most alluring cities in the world. Although no longer the capital of an empire, nor even the Republic of Türkiye, Istanbul remains justly proud of its cosmopolitan heritage. After all, it has been barely 100 years since the end of the venerable Ottoman Empire, a relatively recent event in modern history.

Istanbul’s long and storied past has endowed the city with a bonanza of sights to see and experiences to be had. While the most famous attractions such as Topkapı Palace, Ayasofya (better known in English as the Hagia Sophia) and the Sultanahmet Camii (the Blue Mosque) are well worth visiting, especially for first-time visitors, there are other places in Türkiye’s largest city that are similarly gorgeous, equalling these sights with their beauty and authenticity, yet remaining off the radar for the average tourist.  

The lack of crowds in less famous places adds to the enjoyment of Sokollu Mehmet Pasha Mosque, for example, where the genius of revered Imperial Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan is on full display, as are Türkiye’s splendid Iznik tiles, highly prized for their aesthetic perfection and cultural importance. The small black stones surrounded by gold above the main entrance of the mosque are not mere decorations; they are from the Kaaba in Makkah. Located in the Fatih district’s Kadırga neighbourhood adjacent to Sultanahmet, the area around the mosque is an earthier Istanbul than the more touristy areas in Sultanahmet and Taksim. 

A short stroll away is Küçük Ayasofya Mosque, a smaller version of the more famous Hagia Sophia, but no less worthy of a visitor’s attention. Back before steel and glass were the default materials in urban construction, every detail of a building was considered as a part of the whole, resulting in a harmonious complement of strength and pulchritude in the final product. The stone, the tiles, the carpets, the decorative objects were all well-planned hundreds of years ago, and as seen in this splendid building, their presence retains an admirable majesty to this day.

While the sultans made Topkapı Palace into a showpiece of Ottoman architecture and interior design, those same elements are found in the little-known Hünkâr Kasrı next to the stunning Yeni Mosque. Hünkâr Kasrı was the private lounge for the sultans before and after prayers at the mosque; it can easily be mistaken for another wing of Topkapı Palace, such is its regal construction and decor. Also part of the Yeni Mosque complex is Hatice Turhan Valide Sultan Türbesi, where royal bodies rest in peace, elaborately cloaked under a beautiful ceiling. Another mosque complex popular with visitors is the Sülemaniye Camii complex, a set of buildings that includes the mausoleum of Suleiman the Magnificent. Sited on a hill, the extensive grounds of Süleymaniye Camii attract visitors for the views as well as its historical importance here at one Mimar Sinan’s most acclaimed works.

These centuries-old buildings are in remarkably good condition, jewels of a city that glistens dazzlingly at twilight over the Bosphorus Strait. They are not the only jewels in Istanbul, however. The incredible creations of master craftsman Sevan Biçakçi are unlike any other pieces of jewellery in the world. Having developed an ingenious technique for carving images inside gemstones while maintaining the integrity of their surfaces, Sevan Biçakçi and his talented team at the atelier on Gazi Sinan Pasha Street create awe-inspiring items for both men and women. Rings, bracelets, earrings, necklaces, pendants and accessories such as jewel-encrusted fountain pens carry import far beyond their extreme monetary value. Immediately recognisable, the historical and cultural details incorporated into each piece are highly appreciated by their owners and admirers. Rarest of the rare are the black diamonds that can push the price of a single necklace over a million dollars; loyal clients clamour for the latest items at any price.

Another Istanbul jewel is the recently renovated whirling dervish hall at Galata Mevlevi, now welcoming visitors again to witness the spiritual ceremony in Istanbul’s most atmospheric venue. Notwithstanding complaints that the ‘show’ is geared too much for tourists, there is no doubt that the performance is mesmerising and the hall very beautiful. More correctly known as the Mevlana Sema ceremony, the twirling Sufi ritual was deservedly declared a UNESCO Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity in 2008 and remains one of Istanbul’s most popular visitor experiences. Rather than a dance, the ceremony is actually a manner of meditation moving in both the literal and figurative senses; it makes for a fascinating evening out.

The Galata Mevlevi hall is located north of the Golden Horn, the arm of the Bosphorus that separates the elegance of Sultanahmet and the hustle of Eminönu from the expanse of the city across the famous Galata Bridge. It is therefore an easy ride home to Çıragan Palace Kempinski Istanbul, a most exquisite option for accommodation. In a city with many five-star hotels, many palaces and water as an omnipresent feature, Çıragan Palace combines all three as the only waterfront Ottoman palace that is also a hotel. Newly renovated rooms and suites are superbly designed to incorporate traditional themes in modern style. Naturally, suites looking out over the Bosphorus are highly coveted, with the discreet Palace Suites being the most sought after of all. As is found in all Kempinski properties across the world, the impeccably courteous staff strive to make all guests feel like royalty. It is not hard to do in such splendid surroundings; guests can even dine like royalty during a private Sultan’s dinner experience. Classic Turkish cuisine can also be enjoyed in the refined environment of Tugra Restaurant. Again, the staff know no limit in their aim to please while guests admire sublime works of art on the walls and on the plate. A similarly special experience is the extravagant afternoon tea in the lovely Gazebo restaurant, where Ottoman motifs imbue the decor with a profound sense of place without being overbearing.

Istanbul is a very large city spread over many square kilometres, therefore a car is essential for seeing sights across its extensive area. Travelium is one of Istanbul’s most luxurious (and reliable) transport service companies, providing exceptionally comfortable vehicles and friendly drivers for airport transfers, sightseeing, business appointments and private daytrips to locations outside Istanbul. Istanbul’s ferocious traffic is more tolerable inside a Travelium automobile when the driver thoughtfully plans the day’s outing to minimise inconvenience and maximise satisfaction while clients relax in the back on their way to hidden gems far from the crowds.

One ride definitely worth taking is to the Vefa district west of Sultanahmet, where the last traditional boza maker in Istanbul operates in the same place where it has existed for 150 years. A thick, non-alcoholic drink made from grain, boza is most appreciated in winter but is available at Vefa Bozacısı throughout the year. Simply enter the premises and grab one of the cups on the counter. And then another. Across the street is Vefa Salepçisi, where another traditional winter drink, the similarly thick salep, is dispensed from an enormous copper urn. Made from orchid root, the sometimes hard-to-find salep can also be enjoyed at breakfast in Çıragan Palace, which makes an excellent version. In contrast to all the historic sights, the very modern equestrian statue of Sultan Mehmed II the Conqueror astride a flying horse nearby in Fatih Anit Park is worth a look despite its unheralded status by the locals.

Those in the know are aware that Turkish cuisine is among the best in the world.  Dishes and beverages unique to the country are as interesting as they are pleasing to the palate. Although Western cakes and pastries are ever more prevalent in the city’s eateries, classic milk puddings remain favourites for dessert. Asure with its many ingredients and the curiously delicious tavuk gösü are both must-try puddings, the latter thanks to the unique ability of Turkish chefs to turn chicken breast into a sweet dessert with nary a hint of poultry flavour—for once, it doesn’t taste like chicken. Türkiye is a large country with many regions, which means these areas have developed their own local specialties and delicacies over the centuries. One of the most appealing is sakız, the sap of a tree that grows only in a very small area of the country’s Çesme Peninsula.  The flavour of sakız is akin to pine but that is perhaps an unfair comparison since sakız’s much subtler fragrance makes it useful in a variety of foods, mostly desserts; in this part of the country, visitors find everything from sakız cookies and ice cream to sakız spread and sakız-infused salep.

Located almost at the tip of the Çesme Peninsula, the small town of Alaçatı has become one of the most exclusive hideaways for urban citydwellers looking to escape to a bit of country life. When a respite from the glamour of Istanbul is in order for the many Istanbullus who own second homes here, they descend to Alaçatı for a simpler existence where sun, sand and sea are as abundant as the pomegranates at the outdoor farmers market.

Thanks to Alaçatı’s location on a narrow isthmus, there are beaches both to the north and the south of the charming village centre, where the pedestrianised main street comes alive at night when myriad restaurants and bars welcome patrons after their days relaxing, swimming or pursuing other activities. For the athletic, Alaçatı is Türkiye’s kitesurfing capital thanks to its offshore breezes; for the culturally minded, the new Arkas Art Museum has brought high style to Alaçatı’s art scene. And for those more interested in drinking local wine rather than local culture, a tour of the Urla winery in the town of Urla will be rewarded with the revelation of just how good Turkish wines really are.

Not everyone who comes to Alaçatı owns a home. Luckily for these visitors, Bey Evi is there to welcome them. A small establishment that is, in fact, two former homes, Bey Evi’s stylish rooms in the main house are complemented by more rooms in another house on the opposite side of the large swimming pool and garden. Founded by a successful corporate executive who exchanged business suits for swimsuits, Bey Evi provides the kind of restorative atmosphere where clearing minds of everyday worries and concerns seems to happen effortlessly. Although there is no formal restaurant on the premises, the poolside terrace is still a nice place for drinks and light snacks before heading out to Eflatun, one of the many restaurants where smiles are almost as big as the portions of perfectly prepared food. Sitting outdoors, observing the scene of holidaymakers out for evening promenades, it is here that the essence of the Alaçatı experience can be fully appreciated.

Although Turkish Airlines, the world’s biggest airline by number of countries in its flight network, has nearly countless flights to Istanbul, it is sometimes useful to fly with another company that can deliver visitors directly to their destinations. Pegasus Airlines operates numerous flights connecting Izmir to cities across Türkiye, plus several other countries. The airline does not focus on luxury, per se, but its strength comes in the vast domestic network within Türkiye connecting Izmir and Istanbul with multiple departures per day highlighting simple but efficient service on flights lasting barely an hour.  Pegasus Airlines is purportedly a low-cost carrier, yet its jets are no less comfortable than those of larger airlines. The advantage of Pegasus is that most of its flights go into Sabiha Gökçen International Airport on the Asian side of Istanbul, which is convenient for travellers going into central Istanbul ever since Istanbul’s main airport was relocated far to the north of the city centre.

Sabiha Gökçen (airport code SAW) is also pleasant for arrival and departure thanks to the services of Allways, whose meet and greet on arrival and expedited assistance on departure are invaluable for facilitating passage through the airport. There is great peace of mind in bypassing a long security line when being escorted to VIP security in a quiet area one level up from the main floor of the airport. Even in a busy airport, it is possible to be treated like royalty and enjoy Türkiye’s warm hospitality.